Highlight Studio: Spring/Summer 2023
Hi-Fashion
‘REUNIONS’
HIGHLIGHT STUDIO SPRING/SUMMER 2023
Sometimes looking backwards is the best way forward, and Israeli designer Or Yair Bitton takes a stylistic break with his new collection, revisiting previous work to extract new meanings out of it. Sharper and more self-assured, this collection is a turning point for the designer, who no longer wants to obey the rules of an industry, which expects designers to come up with new ideas on a permanent basis. In fact, following his gut instincts and doing what felt right for him this time ended-up being a freeing experience, adding a fresher outlook to his overall silhouette.
Inspired by the very first steps of the Hashomer Hatzair youth moment, a small group of youngsters who would eventually build the foundations of kibbutzim in Israel, the collection advocates the ideas of mergers and recycling, looking for insightful ways to express hybridity. Highlight Studio’s signature tailoring looks crisper and sleeker this season, paired with utilitarian garments and accessories to create starker contrasts. This is tailoring envisaged as workwear, while workwear pieces are elevated to become elegant staples, from drawstring cargo pants and sleeveless knits to loose belted trousers and military-inspired shirts. The designer sticks to his concept of one-size pants, which can be shared by men and women alike, underlining sartorial unity and sustainable consumption. Workwear is also about confidence and getting things done. It’s a no-nonsense approach, which gives Bitton’s intricate clothes an immediate and authentic appeal.
Gender differences disappear within the collection itself, using women and men to model the looks. At the start of kibbutzim, women were not considered equal to men and their status was precarious. The collection pays homage to their contribution and imprint on kibbutz life by raising future generations of children that would perpetuate a powerful sense of community defined by a life on the outskirts of conventional society. The double-breasted jacket, whether sleeveless or not, becomes a favored piece for men and women, highlighting a sense of structure, order and pride.
The idea of necessity permeates the collection through its accessories, such as protecting hats, scarves and boots allowing the wearer to get on with his or her daily tasks. Upcycled plastic totes are woven with leftover fabrics, adding a sense of whimsy and spontaneity to ordinary objects. Despite its sleeker silhouette, the collection is also playful and optimistic, hopefully leading us towards a brighter future.
This season’s color palette, including shades of blue, beige, black and white, as well as rust and grey, feels earthy and grounded, while noble materials, such as cotton, cashmere and wool make up for most of the collection itself. 4 words printed on a flag, namely ‘It’s Still Happening’ remind us of the horrors of war in Ukraine and how we should not stay silent in front of them. It’s a beautiful gesture, which emphasizes collective welfare and awareness, as opposed to selfishness and ignorance.
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