By Hinders at CIFF CPFW23
Hi-Fashion
CSM alumni Jonathan Ingberg chose a 200 years-old farm in the Finnish archipelago as a home for his gender-fluid brand – renewing old methods of using by-product wool of ancient breed of Finnsheep is part of the brand´s ideology of cultivating longevity.
1-3 February 2023
CIFF, Copenhagen Fashion Week
Area ES, Stall 010A
By Hinders is a Finnish fashion label by Central Saint Martins BA Menswear alumni Jonathan Ingberg, inspired by desire to develop the by-product wool from his family’s sheep farm, Hinders Gård, located close to the Inkoo archipelago in Finland.
With a background of working as a designer across both womenswear and menswear at international brands such as Balenciaga and Tiger of Sweden, Ingberg decided to branch out on his own in 2020 to focus on a unisex wardrobe that aims for an environmentally conscious production chain and emphasizes craftsmanship in collaboration with local artisans. The collections have a refined craft ethos that celebrates the joy of everyday rituals and comforting garments that make you feel good.
For the upcoming third collection, By Hinders continues with the exploration of a multifunctional wardrobe, with the inspiration coming from the 1960's and the period coined as the Golden age of Finnish design. The goal of the collection is to further break down binarised notions about dressing and question the norms related to them. ’’I try to create sculptural, sophisticated, approachable features and shapes in my designs. To me, this is what Finnish design is all about. A quiet luxury.’’
Ancient ingredients and local craftsmanship
When Ingberg´s family bought Hinders Gård, a farm from the 19th century in Inkoo in south of Finland, renovating the farm also included the restoration of the historic farm landscape with the old meadows. To keep these ecosystems in balance, Ingberg´s family used the method that was used for hundreds of years – they acquired Finnsheep, an ancient breed of domestic sheep native to Finland.
The idea of an ecologically sustainable collection was first born while Ingberg studied at Central Saint Martins and themes of material depletion and concept of “make do and mend” brought him back to Hinders Gård. The by-product wool of the sheep farms in Finland was largely left unutilized, but Ingberg started to source and develop it with local natural dyers and mills. ”Finnsheep wool has the characteristics of merino wool and has lot of potential.” Ingberg tells ”We also follow innovations such as Finnish wood-based fibres and hope to use them in the future.”
Common thread in all By Hinders collections is a utilitarian approach to designing with subtle renewal. “It’s about cultivating longevity and refining ideas with time, from by-product wool to upcycling and working with deadstock fabrics.” Ingberg says “The production process traces back to the old Finnish wool-making methods and practices that have been disappearing. Even though the process is slow, I love to see the materials, production and brand connected to the same small farm in the south of Finland. It is a privilege to know every sheep, every spinner, weaver and dressmaker by name.”
Lookbook www.byhinders.com/collection-03